According to the Financial Times, L’Oréal is thinking about selling The Body Shop for 1 billion Euros. Eleven years ago, L’Oréal acquired The Body Shop for 652.3 Millions Pounds. Back then The Body Shop’s ethical stand was seen as an opportunity for L’Oréal to make it big on the natural cosmetic market.
However The Body Shop has been struggling for quite some time. In the first half of last year, like-for-like sales at the Body Shop fell 0.6 per cent to 398.6 Millions Euros compared with the same period the previous year. Operating losses worsened to 22.2 Millions Euros from 7.2 Million Euros. L’Oréal is collaborating with bankers at Lazard to come up with a plan. – The Financial Times.
Boscia is the leader in botanical science. Capitalizing on Japanese technology to create highly effective products, Boscia prides itself to be the first 100% preservative skin care brand.
Boscia is sold exclusively in Sephora and is well-known for is charcoal-centered skin care range.
In the past 2 years Charcoal rose to fame, it has been used extensively in skin care and body wash products. The reason behind the hype is Charcoal’s properties: Charcoal is able to absorb oil and bacteria. Once applied into skin care products, it turns them into super cleanser products acting like magnet to dirt, toxins, pollutants and excess oil.
Boscia latest innovations
Yes their innovation is a balloon !!! But a special one, inside of it you will find a the jelly cleanser. The cleanser contains activated black bamboo charcoal (purify the skin), Tamarindus Indica seed gum (Hydrate and calm the skin) and Hinoki oil (Antioxidant, firming, remove excess oil & toning). This jelly is highly effective on sensitive skin. Once you are ready to use just use the pick to free the jelly.
This natural, powder spray deodorant contains Binchotan White Charcoal which helps minimize the appearance of pores while balancing the skin’s moisture content and absorb moisture. Tagging along Binchotan White Charcoal you will find Activated Bamboo Charcoal. It absorbs toxins and impurities, leaving skin healthier, clearer, more refined, and stronger. The antiperspirant action is managed by a botanical blend that reduces the odors.
Foot peel is a big deal in Asia and should become trendy soon enough in Europe. Thanks to the Alpha Hydroxy Acids (Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid), the dead skin cells are removed allowing the Fruit Extracts (Lemon, Orange, Apple, and Papaya) to penetrate into the skin. These extracts are rich in antioxidants and natural acids that will accelerate the exfoliation process of the upper level of the epidermis. This treatment will leave your feet and skin smooth, soften, moisturize, and brighten.
In 2013, David Gross and Andy Howell (personalization and technology experts) founded MATCHCo, a U.S.-based startup that enable customers to scan their unique skin tones through MATCHCO’s mobile application in order to create customized foundation perfectly matching their skin tone(your name and date it was made printed on the bottle).
The foundation contains beneficial anti-aging and antioxidant ingredients like peptides, Green tea extracts & Vitamin E, as well as skin-conditioning and hydrating ingredients such as ceramides, Bisabolol (Chamomile flower) and Lilum candidum flower extract (White Lily flower).
A part of its Vision 2020, Shiseido acquired MATCHCo in order to strengthen its positon on the market and jump on board with the cosmetic customization trend. Capitalizing on MATCHCo expertise, Shiseido will provide its consumers with digital technologies enabling them to analyse their skin and obtain customized cosmetics products. Shiseido expects to improve its consumer marketing by gathering insights through direct contact.
A couple of fragrances have been released already. Among the known release for the feminine market, we were able to identify some trends for 2017.
Summer is not there yet but we can already feel its light shining through these Floral, Citrusy or Fruity fragrances. The fragrance bottles play with white, gold and light blue colors.
The invigorating sunlight is embodied by white flower solar notes lying on some warm ambery note.
From left to right: L’Eau Bleue – Miu Miu, Terre de Lumière – L’Occitane, Eau de Parfum Blanche – Alaïa and N°5 L’Eau Chanel – Chanel.
Young and Beautiful
An ode to the youth and romanticism opening with fizzy and acidulous red fruits and grapefruit setting the scene for a floral heart. The sillage reveals a gourmand and addictive base note in which magnetic woods and sensual musks intertwine.
The fragrance bottles are all in roundness mixing tenderness and modernity. The colors oscillates between different shades of pink and light purple.
From left to right: Angel Muse – Thierry Mugler, Mademoiselle L’Eau très Belle – Azzaro and Mademoiselle Rochas – Rochas.
These fragrances evoke the incandescent sensuality, the elegance and charm conveyed by modern women. These ultra feminine fragrances are built on a charismatic rose accompanied by bedazzling spicy notes swaddled in a warm and mysterious musky accord.
The fragrance bottles encompass the passion, the exquisite grace and the extreme refinement. The bottles explore different colors such as black, gold, ambery and pink.
From left to right: L’Extase Rose Absolue – Nina Ricci, Izia – Sisley and Fleur Musk – Narciso Rodriguez.
These fragrances embody the youth and spirit of spring with its blooming flowers and green freshness. A delicate and joyful floral bouquet with a touch of fruity notes and a green facet (Jasmine).
The pink fragrance bottles evoke spring and the blooming flowers.
From left to right: Flowerbomb Bloom – Victor & Rolf and Daisy Eau so Fresh Kiss – Marc Jacobs.
As the day come to an end, the night covers the sky with its mysterious veil evoking the passionate facets and enchanting charm of a woman. This fragrance opens with fruity top notes (berries) enveloped in an opulent floral heart (jasmine, rose, peony).
The fragrance bottles reflect this mystery, sensuality and seduction with its Dark Blue, Purple and Black colors and elegant design.
From left to right: Luna Blossom – Nina Ricci, La Nuit Trésor l’Eau de Toilette – Lancôme and Jeu d’Amour Félin – Kenzo.
A lot has been done to protect the skin from the pollution and attacks from the environment. We have been paying attention to our pores, cells renewal rate and now it’s time to care about our Microbiota. It might gross you out but we are sharing our body space with a lovely ecological community (bacteria, fungi, and archaea). The bad news is some of them will affect your immune system and your skin’s health. The good news is a lot of them perform tasks that are known to be useful for us.
Bye bye bad bacteria
Once again Korea and Japan are one step ahead. As part of their beauty routine, Korean women incorporated double cleansing. The first one would remove the makeup and the second one would take care of the excess of oil, bacteria and other impurity that might be clogging your pores. According to Charlotte Cho, blogger at Soko Glam you coud also go for a triple cleanse, have a look at her 10-step Program.
If it wasn’t enough, Korea and Japan witnessed the rise of digital tools to analyse the skin. In combination with their beauty routine, some Korean women use tools to make sure their skin is at its best at any given moment.
WAY collects data from your skin and surroundings, provides skincare tips on your connected device (More info: clic here).
Hello good bacteria
Now that we got the bad news at of our way, let’s talk Probiotics. Recent studies showed some powerful skin health benefits from using Probiotics (Topical application or Ingesting them).
- Strenghten natural skin defenses.
- Lower stress level in the skin.
- Balance the skin’s pH level.
- The good bacteria will fight free radicals, allergens and other impurities.
- Target wrinkles
- Hydrate the skin.
- Reduce damages caused by the sun.
- Improve skin’s elasticity.
In 2017 you can expect to see flourishing brands using probiotics. Some are already on board.
Purifying Face Cleanser + Illuminating Face Serum +Hydrating Day & Night Cream + Revitalizing Eye Cream.
Each TULA product nourishes your skin with a balanced meal of good-for-you ingredients, the same way a healthy diet nourishes your body.
Once combined with water, this nutrient-rich balm becomes a light milk that penetrates deeply and lifts away pore-blocking impurities to leave your skin feeling thoroughly clean, comfortable and soft.
A trio that restores & maintains good bacteria so your skin can do better with less.
This intelligent, aromatic, creamy infusion glides on to the skin and lifts off all impurities and make- up. It fuses probiotic and peptide technologies with BioOrganic plant and flower essences to hydrate and soothe dull and dehydrated skin promoting a luminous, dewy, radiant glow whilst helping to prevent skin ageing.
This serum contains active probiotics immersed in soy and rice milk proteins to fight the visible effects of aging.
This lightweight cream. It doubles as a sleeping mask – formulated with probiotics that neutralize free radicals, visibly minimize pores, and reduce oil production overnight. So you wake up with the healthy, glowing complexion of your dreams.
This year you can expect skin care products to play with textures, more specifically Transforming texture. Be ready to explore new sensations and learn new gestures. These well established Korean innovations will surprise your senses.
From oil to gel
Cellgenie Lipid Oil Mask by Cosme Decorte (4.5oz, 130g, $120 )
Cellgenie is an anti-aging product two-layer oil, each layer penetrates the skin differently. The lower layer will instantly absorbs into the skin to soften and adjust the stratum corneum whilst the other one will transform into a gel to increase suppleness and elasticity.
Among the actives, we have Andrographis paniculata (restore nutrients and gives to the skin more elastic and supple look), Rosehip oil (nourishing, brightening and suppleness), Vitramin E and Poria Cocos (brightening and firming effects)
How to use
- Get 3 cherry-sized portion on the fingers and apply a thick coat evenly onto face.
- Avoid the eyes, eyebrows, hair and mouth.
- After 5-10 minutes, massage the face outwardly from the centre and remove the gel-like mask.
- Wipe face with tissues or cleanse with water.
From bean to foam
Coming from Jeju Island in South Korea these beans offer a gentle cleansing and can be used for your entire body. Grab some in your hands and splash some water onto it. The beans will transform in a cleansing foam that will rejuvenate, exfoliate and clean your skin. Each bean is formulated with ingredients such as volcanic ash, Rubus Flower, and Nutmeg Tree Extract, meant to target specific concerns such as excessive dryness, sensitive skin, and uneven tone.
From gel to water
Martian Mattifying Water Gel toner by Sunday Riley (4.4 oz, $55 )
Martian Mattifying Melting Water-Gel Toner is formulated to target oily and acne-prone skin concerns. Immediately melting from a treatment gel to a water toner as it is massaged into the skin, it contains bentonite clay to mattify and visibly reduce pore size, and marshmallow and green tea to soothe and cool the signs of redness and sensitive skin for a calmer-looking complexion. Cucumber and witch hazel extracts tone and tighten, while Manuka—a relative of tea tree oil—along with black cumin and magnolia bark extracts provide natural antibacterial properties to balance oily and problem skin conditions and promote a visibly improved, clearer, smoother, shine-free complexion. Skin is mattified and prepped for further skin care or color application, and it helps to keep foundation set all day.
From Balm to oil
8-Flower Nectar Oil Cream by Darphin (30ml, $135.00)
Created for evening application, 8- Flower Nectar rich cream gradually turns into an opulent oil. Infused with a blend of aromatic essences from 280 petals, it will leave your skin feeling soft, smooth and supple whilst looking radiant.
A multi-sensory experience beyond compare
Located on 73 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (Paris), emblematic street for the French luxury and art de vivre, Le Grand Musée du Parfum opened on the 16th December 2016. It took Guillaume de Maussion and his team 2 years to complete this colossal project. This project has been supported by some key actors of the fragrance industry such as the French Syndicate of Perfumery (SFP) and International Flavors & Fragrances Inc.
The museum incorporates state of the art technologies offering a multi-sensory experience to its visitors. Inside this 19th century mansion (former headquarter of Maison Christian-Lacroix), you are introduce to the three mains chapters of perfume history. During the visit you smell around 60 fragrance raw materials.
Discover the tales of iconic raw materials and fragrances
I have been working in the fragrance industry for quite some time and I have to say, I learned a lot during this first part of the visit. Perfumery is an ambassador of French culture and I was delighted to find out more about its relationship with French historical figures. From Napoleon heavy cologne consumption to Marie-Antoinette affection for Eau de Roses and Eau de Violette. During this first part of the visit, you are invited to smell iconic raw materials, some cologne and Kyphi the first fragrance ever created by man. On the picture above, you have one example of interactive system allowing you to smell fragrances or raw materials.
For the fans of vintage and ultra-vintage, you can admire antique perfume bottles. This photo below was taken by Irene de Rosen.
Engage your senses in the scents garden
This part of the visit was quite fun. As you wander through this lovely scented garden, you are welcomed by key raw materials (rose, jasmin, patchouli, sandalwood..) perfumers use to create their bespoke fragrances. On the left picture, you have these little balls levitating in the air like fragrance droplets. Inside of every single one of them hides a secret fragrance ingredient waiting to be smelled . As you smell it a mysterious voice coming out of the ball tells you more about it. The picture on the right was like a journey full of memories. Each bell lights up as you get close to it, you can smell various evocative odors like lavender. I really loved the designed of this room, I felt transported on a cloud.
I didn’t talk about all the things waiting for you to be discovered. I feel like you need to explore them yourself.
A dialog with a perfumer
This last part of the museum is dedicated to the art of the perfumer. Different perfumers share their thoughts, creative process and their inspiration. Most of the perfumes we wear on a daily basis are the result of the perfect combination of hundreds of different olfactive notes the Perfumers played with like a pianist. I had the opportunity to work with perfumers and I always found mesmerizing their ability to identify raw materials in fragrances with such precision.
A family business
In 2012, Derek Maxfield and Melanie Huscroft founded Younique, a privately owned makeup and cosmetics direct sales company. Younique market and sell almost exclusively through the use of social media. They believe in the strength and influence of women in the world today. Their mission is to empower, validate and uplift women all across teh world.They believe in the strength and influence of women in the world today.
Ready to join Coty
According to Reuters, Coty is already thinking about its next move. Right after its merger last year, Coty intends to buy 60% stake in Younique LLC for 600 millions dollars. According to Coty Younique 2016 sales revenue should be 400 millions dollars. This is a quite promising addition to Coty’s portfolio.
2017 just started and we are ready to enjoy every little moments of it. It’s the right time to set the mood for the year to come. Annick Goutal invites you to pick the mantra that suits you best and share it with your loved ones, your friends via Facebook, Twitter , Pinterest or e-mail with the hashtag #AnnickGoutal .
100% Illusion by Robert Stadler
Robert Stadler is a talented Austrian designer. studied design at IED and at ENSCI in Paris. “He explores the exhibition space in order to scramble the usual categories of art and design. He questions the status of the object as a work of art or a product as well as the border between preciousness and lowliness, elegance and vulgarity, the serious and the absurd. Questioning the object’s identity or even provoking their dissolution, are fields of interest crossing most of his projects” – wikipedia. He collaborated with Hermès, the Cartier Fondation, the Cesar Academy and more recently with Le Grand Musée du Parfum (The Great Perfume Museum) in Paris for this pop_up exhibition “100% Illusion”.
Le Grand Musée du Parfum collaborated with Robert Stadler, the SNCF (national train company) to celebrate the recent opening of the museum (16th December 2016).
In this very busy place, these bells offer to people passing by a moment of serenity, a journey to the world of fragrances. Just pop your head in one of these bells and you will discover 5 different fragrance raw material:
- Amyl Vinyl Carbinol (earthy, green note)
- Lynalyl Acetate (Herbal, green, spicy note, it’s found in many flowers and is a key ingredient for Bergamot and Lavender essential oils)
- Camphor (green and pungent note)
- Coumarin (Smells like a mix between almonds, vanilla and freshly-mown hay)
- The last bell is the harmonious mix of these 4 ingredients to create a lavender accord.
100% illusion: Saint Lazare Train station from December 2016 to February 2017.
It’s a cluster era !
2016 was the year of mergers and acquisitions. From the top of my head, Shiseido obtained the license for Dolce & Gabbana Beauty, Estée Lauder acquired by Kilian and obviously there was the Coty-P&G merger. As time is passing by the market is moving towards a big fight among beauty groups. I can’t think of a fragrance brand not being part of a group. When you look at niche fragrance houses you can clearly see them being part of big beauty group in the near future. Don’t know if it’ a good thing but I would like to believe that beauty group won’t alter brands DNA.
September 2016: Revlon completed the acquisition of Elizabeth Arden. In June 2016 Revlon bought all of the outstanding shares of Elizabeth Arden (Valued at 870 Million dollars). “The combination of two iconic companies creates a multi-brand, global beauty enterprise and tremendous opportunity for long-term growth and value creation,” said Mr. Fabian Garcia, President and Chief Executive Officer of the newly-combined company
The operating structure will remain the same. Revlon became a multi-global brands giant (Revlon, Elizabeth Arden, Revlon ColorSilk, Revlon Professional, American Crew, Juicy Couture, John Varvatos, Wildfox Couture, Curve, Elizabeth Taylor, Britney Spears, Christina Aguilera, Giorgio Beverly Hills and Jennifer Aniston). The new Revlon net sales should approximate 3 billion dollars.
Thousand of perfumes are released each year, did you really pick your dream fragrance ?
According to a survey done in 2015 by the Fragrance Foundation, you did and you didn’t. Finding The One is not a thing for most of the consumers, 90% of French consumers use several fragrances. Depending on their mood or the seasons they will use one or another. If you look at extreme cases like myself, it’s like having your own Sephora at home.
The big question is how do we pick fragrances ?
The Fragrance Foundation found out some of the key motivations behind our purchase. Brands spend millions of euros in advertising but at the end of the day, it all comes down to how we feel when we smell the fragrance.
- You want to feel good and your fragrance is doing the trick.
- You want to feel unique and your fragrance is the embodiment of who you are.
- That one spray boosts your femininity or masculinity.We can look at it from a seduction point of view or just consider its impact on your charisma.
How many of us could describe their dream fragrance? Can you describe the fragrance you love with words a retailer could understand? How well would you describe it?
Consumers are becoming expert in fragrances. However perfumes are way more complex than you would imagine. Sometimes you may find yourself speechless, putting word on emotions is difficult.
What if I told you olfactive diagnosis existed !
You have probably seen on retailers websites different approaches to address the “How can I help you?”
It can be through forum with fellow consumers (see above) or simple diagnosis done in the store or via a mobile application. Sephora tried to come up with some kind of diagnosis for fragrance consumers, so did Marionnaud in 2012 with its “ScentLab”.
For this project, Marionnaud collaborated with Giorgio Armani, Yves Saint Laurent and Lancôme. This touch screen displayed personality questions and depending on their answers a profile was drawn and fragrance suggestions were made to the consumers. Once again the big challenge was to match personality traits to fragrances. Depending on your mood you might end up with completely different results.
The Nose Method
Nose is a concept-store located in Paris (20 rue bachaumont 75002) and founded by Nicolas Cloutier (Président and Co-Founder), Romano Ricci (Founder of Juliette Has a Gun), Mark Buxton (Perfumer who collaborated with LVMH, L’Oréal, Coty…), Silvio Levi (Founder of Calé Fragranze d’Autore), Antoine Calmus (the brain behind the diagnosis algorithm), Claire Delahaye de Villers and Didier Negiar.
Nose’s Vision: Focusing on the consumers and helping them finding their dream fragrance.
Nose, it’s 45 Niche perfume, cosmetics and home fragrance brands, 500 references, 1 olfactive diagnosis, 1 passion for fragrances.
- Enter 3 fragrances you love (it doesn’t matter if you are not wearing them at the moment)
- Your diagnosis: Tells you your preferred notes and olfactive families.
- Your recommandations: 5 fragrances are suggested (Niche fragrance and Home Fragrance). You can buy a set of sample for 15€.
- Evaluation: You evaluate each individual sample and score how much you dis/liked them. Your evaluation is taken into account. If you found your dream fragrance then you can buy the full bottle at a discounted price. If it is not the case you will have 5 new recommendations to evaluate.
I tried it and I loved it. Whenever you enter Sephora, Nocibe, Marionnaud … you find yourself overwhelmed by all the fragrances available and you probably stick to some big names. With this diagnosis I discovered niche brands I never heard about and I had this amazing opportunity to smell some captivating and unique scents. I didn’t find my dream fragrance yet but I am getting really close. The olfactive portrait gives great insights on what notes I like and I totally agree with it.